Prep: Remove any polish, wash and dry hands, brush off dust. Wear a mask/eye protection if available.
Choose the bit:
Barrel + 100/150 sanding band: product removal / shaping tips.
Medium barrel/cone: smoothing and refining.
Fine diamond/safety bit (rounded top): cuticle zone and sidewalls.
Attach & check: Insert the bit fully and tighten. Power on at low speed to check for wobble.
Set speed & direction:
Natural nail/cuticle care: 3,000–6,000 RPM.
Shaping gel/acrylic: 8,000–12,000 RPM (advanced removal up to 15–20k by pros only).
Forward (R) for right hand; Reverse (L) for left hand.
Technique: Hold like a pen; rest your pinky for control. Keep the bit nearly parallel to the nail, use light pressure, and keep it moving—no lingering to avoid heat.
Cuticle area: With a fine/safety bit at low RPM, gently exfoliate the cuticle line and sidewalls. Do not dig into living skin.
Shape & smooth: Use medium grit for shaping, then switch to fine grit to smooth the surface and free edge. Work in consistent, one-direction strokes.
Finish: Dust off, wipe with alcohol/cleanser if needed, and proceed to base/color/top—or buff to a satin finish.
Aftercare: Massage in cuticle oil.
Clean & store: Remove the bit, brush debris, wash bits with mild soap, disinfect, dry thoroughly. Wipe the handpiece and store in a cool, dry case.